Generator Wattage Calculator — What Size Do I Need?

Tick the appliances you need to run in an outage. Get your running watts, your true peak, and the generator size class to buy — with the surge driver named, not buried.

Running watts and additional starting watts are pre-filled from the table in the article below and are editable — if your appliance's nameplate differs, the nameplate wins over any table. Quantity multiplies running watts only; the starting surge is counted once, for one unit starting at a time.

Generac typical.
Generac lists “Refrigerator/Freezer” as one row at these values; applied here to a standalone freezer as the conservative typical.
Generac. The ⅓ HP variant runs 800 W with +1,300 W surge.
Generac. Larger-HP pumps draw substantially more — check your pump's HP.
Generac. The ⅓ HP variant runs 700 W with +1,400 W surge.
Generac typical — see the variance note in the article.
Generac midpoint preset — central AC varies more than any other load. Check the outdoor unit's nameplate (LRA/RLA) before trusting any preset.
Generac.
Generac. Resistive load — no surge.
Generac.
Generac.
Typical preset: 10 W per LED bulb × 10 bulbs. Typical value — check your bulbs and edit the watts if needed.
Generac.
Composite preset: Generac laptop 85 W + Wi-Fi modem/router 20 W.
Generac. Resistive load — no surge.
Generac, one 8" element. A full range with oven plus multiple elements draws far more.
Generac.
Honda: 720 W running, 1,420 W total starting — stored here as +700 W additional.
Typical value, not a manufacturer-table figure — check your device label, especially with a heated humidifier, which can raise the draw well above this.
Anything not listed — use its nameplate watts.
Anything not listed — use its nameplate watts.
Default 20% — see the headroom section in the article. Editable from 0 to 50.

Recommended generator size

—

FigureAmount
Total running watts—
Largest single additional starting surge—
Surge driver—
Peak starting watts—
Recommended minimum size (peak × headroom)—
Recommended size class—
Running load as % of the recommended class—

Planning estimate only, from typical appliance wattages (Generac/Honda sizing guides, cited above). Your appliances' nameplates govern — motor loads, air conditioners especially, vary widely by model and age. This tool does not perform an electrical load calculation and does not size a permanently installed standby system: whole-house and transfer-switch installations need a licensed electrician and must follow local code. Never run a generator indoors or in a garage — carbon monoxide kills; operate outdoors, away from windows, per the manufacturer's instructions.

Add the running watts of everything you will run at once, add only the largest single starting surge, then add 20% headroom. The example outage list — fridge, freezer, sump pump, furnace blower, microwave, lights, TV, computer and router, coffee maker — totals 5,545 running watts, peaks at 7,895 watts, and lands on a 10,000 W class generator.

Running watts, starting watts, and the 2–3 second surge

Every appliance has two numbers. Running watts are what it draws continuously once it is going. Starting watts are what a motor-driven appliance needs for the 2–3 seconds it takes to start — in Generac's words, “starting watts are extra watts needed for 2–3 seconds to start motor-driven products.” Resistive and electronic loads — a water heater, a space heater, lights, a TV — have no surge at all. Motor loads — refrigerator compressors, pumps, furnace blowers, washing machines — can need two to three times their running draw for those few seconds, and a generator that cannot cover the surge stalls or trips exactly when the fridge kicks on.

This page's table stores additional starting watts: the extra watts above running watts, following Generac's worksheet convention. Total starting watts for one appliance are running + additional. Keeping the convention straight is the whole game, because the two ways incumbents mix it up both produce a wrong size: summing every appliance's starting watts oversizes the unit (motors do not all start in the same second), while adding an appliance's total starting watts on top of a running total that already includes its running watts double-counts them. The formula here is the worksheet formula: total running watts, plus the single largest additional surge, once.

The appliance table — with its sources

ApplianceRunning WAdditional starting W
Refrigerator7002,200
Freezer (standalone)7002,200
Sump pump (½ HP)1,0502,200
Well pump (⅓ HP)1,0002,200
Furnace blower (½ HP)8002,350
Window AC (10,000 BTU)1,2001,800
Central AC (24,000 BTU, ~2-ton)3,8004,950
Microwave (1,000 W)1,0000
Electric water heater4,0000
Washing machine1,1502,250
Electric clothes dryer5,4001,350
LED lights (10 bulbs)1000
TV (55" LED)900
Computer (laptop) + router1050
Space heater1,8000
Electric oven / range (8" element)2,1000
Coffee maker1,0000
Garage door opener (½ HP)720700
CPAP (medical device)600

Sources: (1) Generac, Home Standby Generator Ownership Guide — “Typical Power Needs by Appliance” / Wattage Worksheet (running watts + additional starting watts per appliance), corroborated by Generac Support (support.generac.com, “What does surge/starting wattage mean?”). Generac lists “Refrigerator/Freezer” as one row at 700 / +2,200; this table applies those values to a standalone freezer as the conservative typical, and labels the row accordingly. The computer row is a visible composite: Generac laptop 85 W + Wi-Fi modem/router 20 W. (2) Honda Power Equipment, “What Wattage Generator Do I Need?” wattage estimation guide (powerequipment.honda.com) — the garage-door-opener row: Honda states 720 W running and 1,420 W total starting, converted here to +700 W additional (1,420 − 720), and used as the cross-check in the variance notes below.

Every figure is a typical value that yields to the appliance nameplate. Sources disagree on several rows, and the table takes the Generac worksheet value as the defensible typical: a 10,000 BTU window AC is 1,200 running / +1,800 additional at Generac versus 1,500 running / 2,200 total starting at Honda — real units vary by efficiency and age. The electric water heater is 4,000 W at Generac versus 4,500 W at Honda, because element sizes differ by tank. LED lighting is a per-bulb typical (10 W), editable per row — the default row is 10 bulbs at quantity 1. Two rows carry explicit labels rather than source claims: the LED row is a labeled typical, and the CPAP row (60 W) appears in neither the Generac worksheet nor the Honda home table — it is the top of the 30–60 W typical range used across sizing tables for a CPAP without heated humidification. Check your device label, especially with a heated humidifier, which can raise the draw well above 60 W. It is presented as a typical, never as a manufacturer-sourced figure.

The central AC warning: no row varies more. Generac's own table runs from 1,500 / +3,000 at 10,000 BTU to 6,000 / +6,700 at 40,000 BTU, so the 24,000 BTU preset here is a midpoint, not a measurement. If your list includes central AC, read the outdoor unit's nameplate (LRA/RLA figures) or ask about a soft-start kit rather than trusting any preset — including this one.

Why 20% headroom

The default margin is 20% for three stated reasons. First, generators should not run at 100% of rating continuously — sustained loading is conventionally kept to roughly 80% of rated capacity, and sizing the unit at peak × 1.20 is the worksheet-level expression of that practice. Second, the margin absorbs nameplate variance between table values and your actual appliances, plus voltage sag under load. Third, it covers the one forgotten small load every outage list has. Generac's own worksheet example rounds a 6,600 W calculated need up to a 7.5 kW unit — the same buy-the-next-size-up behavior the size-class output encodes. If you are running only resistive and electronic loads with verified nameplates, you can lower the margin; at altitude or on propane — both of which derate a generator's output — raise it instead.

Portable classes, and where standby begins

The recommendation maps onto the common portable classes — 2,000 / 3,500 / 5,000 / 7,500 / 10,000 W — always rounding up to the smallest class that covers the computed minimum. A list needing 3,588 W lands in the 5,000 W class, not the 3,500 W class it just misses. Past 10,000 W the output reads “14,000 W+ — whole-house standby territory”: at that point the conversation changes from which portable to buy to transfer switches, fuel supply, and a licensed electrician's load calculation. The running-load percentage in the results keeps the continuous picture visible alongside the surge picture — a unit whose peak fits but whose running load sits at 95% of its class will live a hard life.

Worked example

An outage list of nine appliances, each quantity 1, at the default 20% headroom: refrigerator (700 / +2,200), freezer (700 / +2,200), sump pump ½ HP (1,050 / +2,200), furnace blower ½ HP (800 / +2,350), microwave (1,000 / 0), LED lights (100 / 0), TV (90 / 0), computer + router (105 / 0), and coffee maker (1,000 / 0). Tick exactly those rows in the calculator to reproduce it:

  • Total running watts: 700 + 700 + 1,050 + 800 + 1,000 + 100 + 90 + 105 + 1,000 = 5,545 W
  • Largest single additional surge: 2,350 W — the furnace blower, named in the output
  • Peak starting watts: 5,545 + 2,350 = 7,895 W
  • Recommended minimum: 7,895 × 1.20 = 9,474 W
  • Size class: 10,000 W — running load 5,545 ÷ 10,000 = 55.5% of the class

Two checks worth running yourself. Essentials only — refrigerator plus TV — give 790 W running, a 2,200 W surge, a 2,990 W peak, and a 3,588 W recommendation, which lands in the 5,000 W class because 3,588 exceeds the 3,500 W class. And two refrigerators (quantity 2 on that row alone) give 1,400 W running with the surge still 2,200 W — quantity never multiplies the surge, because one unit starts at a time — for a 3,600 W peak and a 5,000 W class recommendation.

Carbon monoxide: the non-negotiable block

Never run a generator indoors or in a garage — carbon monoxide kills. Operate it outdoors only, away from windows, doors, and vents, so exhaust cannot drift inside, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for your unit. No sizing result on this page matters if this rule is broken. Fuel and altitude also derate real output: a generator on propane, or working at elevation, delivers less than its sea-level gasoline rating, which is one more reason the headroom margin exists.

Frequently asked questions

What size generator do I need for a house?

Essentials-only lists commonly land in the 5,000–7,500 W classes; adding central AC or an electric water heater pushes most homes to 10,000 W or standby territory. There is no correct generic answer — the only correct answer is your own appliance list run through the formula on this page: total running watts, plus the single largest additional starting surge, plus headroom.

Do I add up the starting watts of every appliance?

No. Add the running watts of everything you will run at once, then add only the single largest additional starting surge. Motors do not all start in the same second, so stacking every surge oversizes the generator — and adding an appliance's total starting watts on top of a running total that already includes its running watts double-counts them.

What will a 7,500-watt generator run?

Any list whose peak — total running watts plus the largest single additional surge — stays under about 6,250 W before headroom. For example, this page's worked-example list minus the coffee maker and freezer peaks at 6,195 W and fits the 7,500 W class. Always check against your own list: one large motor load can change the answer by itself.

Why does the recommendation exceed my peak watts?

Because of the 20% headroom. Generators should not run at 100% of rating continuously — sustained loading is conventionally kept to roughly 80% of rated capacity — and the margin also absorbs nameplate variance between table values and your actual appliances, voltage sag under load, and one forgotten small load.

Can this size a whole-house standby generator?

It flags when a list exceeds the portable classes (14,000 W and up), but standby sizing and installation require a licensed electrician's load calculation and a transfer switch. Use this page to understand your loads and to have an informed conversation with the installer — not as the installation specification.

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